Monday, December 26, 2011

Nagaland village focus: Vishepu

Given the number of villages I've managed to visit in Nagaland, I thought I'd do a 'village focus' post for specific ones. This first one has a special place in my heart, because in a sense it's where my relationship with Nagaland started. My friend I., who now lives in Melbourne hails from this village, and it's thanks to her that I started learning Sumi.

A few months ago, Vishepu made it into the local news because some white smoke was seen coming from the top of Mt Vishepu, which is right next to the village. Reports of a new volcano proved unfounded, although no one's quite certain what the cause of the smoke was - some reckon it was just steam being released.

In any case, Vishepu was the first village I visited in Nagaland, back in early 2009 (so it's almost been 3 years since I first came here). I posted some photos on Flickr a while back. One of I.'s sisters was amazed that when she recently googled 'Vishepu', she didn't just find images of her village, but also one of her parents' home!

Vishepu is a Sumi village in Zunheboto district just south of Satakha. It's one of the last villages before you enter Phek district to the south, which is predominantly Chakhesang. It was founded by two brothers, Zükiye and Vishepu. Although Zükiye was the elder brother, he let the village be named after Vishepu. Today the village has four chiefs, two from the Zükiye side of the family, and two from the Vishepu side.

To get to Vishepu from Satakha, you head south along the Chazuba Road, then turn left up the road that leads to the village of Xüivi at the top of the range. You pass Xüivi, then continue down the other side of the range.

This is Vishepu as viewed from the road between Xüivi and Vishepu.
On the road to Vishepu

And this is Vishepu as viewed from the top of the church tower and from in front of the church.
Vishepu

Vishepu

I took this shot a few days ago - the light on the surrounding hills was so pretty that day.
Vishepu village

This is I.'s parents' house, as seen in Feb 2009. He's one of the village chiefs and you can a few mithun skulls on the front of the house, as well as what I think is a deer skull. This Christmas they're adding another mithun skull, since one was killed for the Christmas feast thrown by I. and her husband.
Vishepu

In Zunheboto district, Vishepu is famous for its woodwork and is reputed to be the first village to start crafting wood plates (asükhu). Here, I.'s father Kiviho explains to H S Rotokha about the history of woodworking in the village. (These photos were taken a few days ago.)
Vishepu chief Kiviho with Rotokha explaining woodwork

A new asükhu being made from a single piece of wood - I should've bought one of them from the village instead of getting one at the Hornbill Festival!
Asükhu being carved in Vishepu

I've got Christmas feast photos too, but given how slow the internet is, uploading photos might take some time. Hope everyone had a good Christmas!

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