Showing posts with label brahmaputra. Show all posts
Showing posts with label brahmaputra. Show all posts

Friday, November 30, 2012

Visit to Umananda Mandir, Guwahati

As I'll be heading back to Nagaland in a few days' time for the Hornbill Festival, I thought I'd finish posting about some of the sightseeing I've been doing in Guwahati the past two weeks. Last week, my friend A. S. dropped into Guwahati for a few days and we ended up doing a bit of sightseeing, visiting places that I hadn't been to, even though I've been in Guwahati since August, and this is the 2nd extended stay here.

One place we visited was the Umananda Mandir on Peacock Island, situated in the middle of the Brahmaputra, just north of the city. I'd seen the island many times from my walks along the Brahmaputra, but had never actually visited the island.

Peacock Island

Getting there isn't too difficult. There are ferries (shared or for individual hire) at Sukreswar Ghat (or rather, the makeshift ghat next to the Sukreswar Ghat park between Fancy Bazar and Pan Bazar). We paid Rs 550 to hire a whole boat to take us to the island and back at our own leisure, but some guys that came back as we were heading off paid Rs 500. I think there was also a shared ferry that left at regular intervals, though I can't remember the price for that.

Sureswar Ghat, Guwahati


There is another ferry service that lives from Uzan Bazar Ghat, but I don't know the price either. [Note: this photo was taken near the end of the monsoon, when the water level was still very high. At this time of year, the boat on the left sits on a sand bank.]

Brahmaputra River, Uzan Bazar Ghat, Guwahati


The boat ride was pleasant enough, and took us past the real Sukreswar Ghat.

Sukreswar Ghat, Guwahati


The highlight though, was seeing the sun set over the river. We left around 3.45pm, and given how far east we are within this time zone, the sun sets by about 4.30pm at this time of year here.

Sunset over the Brahmaputra, Guwahati


Boat ride on Brahmaputra to Peacock Island


The temple complex itself was charming enough. It was originally a Shiva temple built by an Ahom king. (The Ahoms actually came from further east, speaking a language that is closer to Thai than to Assamese.) However, most of the original temple was damaged in the quake of 1897 and the temple was subsequently rebuilt. The current Wikipedia article says it was a 'rich local merchant', and judging by the use of tiles, I would hazard a guess that it was a Marwari merchant whose family hailed from Rajasthan.

Umananda Mandir, Guwahati


Umananda Mandir, Guwahati


Umananda Mandir, Guwahati


And this is the temple itself.

Umananda Mandir, Guwahati


Apart from the temple, the island is known to be home to a small troupe of golden langurs (a kind of monkey). We didn't have enough time to look for them as we walked around the island, but we did manage to see them in the trees on the boat ride back to Guwahati.

Next time I go, I'd probably give myself another half an hour or so and leave Sukreswar Ghat around 3pm (or roughly 1.5 hours before sunset), as I would've liked to have more time to look for langurs.

Sunset over Umananda Mandir

Still, it was a wonderful afternoon out on the Brahmaputra, and we got to see one of those amazing sunsets over the river that I've come to love.

Sunset over the Brahmaputra, Guwahati

Tuesday, September 25, 2012

The Mighty Brahmaputra

While many parts of Northern Britain have also been hit by severe weather and flooding, the headlines of all the local papers here in Assam have been about one thing the past week: the massive flooding happening all over the Brahmaputra valley which has displaced thousands and killed more than a dozen people.

Floods sweep more areas (Seven Sisters Post, 24/09/2012)
Flood scene worsens in State, 18 dead  (The Assam Tribune, 25/09/2012)

Note that severe flooding in July already displaced more than a million people and killed more than 100 people (as mentioned in this BBC article about the current flooding situation ). Most of Majuli Island, the world's largest 'river island' (which used to have an area almost twice that of Singapore) is underwater as well.

Up till the past few days, the situation was mostly in Upper Assam, but now the flood waters have started to enter parts of Guwahati:
Brahmaputra crosses danger mark, situation in Guwahati grim (The Sentinel, 25/09/2012)

I'm thankful that the part of town I'm staying at isn't at immediate risk of flooding, although I will have trouble commuting to the university if water levels don't recede soon. The part of town I took these photos just a month ago is also underwater, with houses in nearby Pandu inundated and people not wanting to leave their homes for fear that thieves will enter in their absence.

Sunset over the Brahmaputra

Sunset over the Brahmaputra

Not surprisingly here, one of the first things that came to mind for many local people is that China is somehow responsible, what with the construction of the Zangmu Dam further upstream. The papers immediately addressed this with articles like this one:
Water from China not to blame (The Assam Tribune, 23/09/2012)

Of course, the conspiracy theorists will still believe what they want to believe.

What we do know is that in spite of everything, the Chief Minister of Assam still decided it was important to leave the state to go to Japan to "study Goods and Services Tax (GST) and related matters."