Around Tezpur

No conference is complete without a little sightseeing excursion around the local town. On the second day of the NEILS conference, we got a chance to see visit a few scenic spots around the town of Tezpur. Leaving at 3.30pm wasn't ideal (especially when the sun sets around 4.30), but it was still a pleasant little trip.

We started at Bamuni Hill, where the ruins are said to date from the 10th to 12th centuries. From my rather sketchy knowledge of the history of Assam, I think it means they were built during the time of the Kamarupan Kingdom which precedes the Ahom Kingdom which was founded by invading Tai speaking people from what is now Burma / Myanmar.





The thing is, most of the 'ruins' were just lying exposed to the elements, with people allowed to walk all over them. Given the yearly monsoon, most of them looked surprisingly unweathered. It seems a tad bit silly to excavate them just TO lay them out in the open for people to trample on. But I suppose it makes more sense than shipping them off to some faraway museum.

The second stop was a place called Agnigarh - agni means 'fire' and garh means 'fort'. There was a story associated with the place, something about an asura who wanted to keep his daughter from the rest of the world but she ended up marrying someone in secret anyway. I think the 'fire' bit is because the fort was said to have been surrounded by fire. (The Wikipedia article seems to agree with what I was told.)

There was a lovely view of the Brahmaputra River from the top of the hill, even if the water level was very low. I'd love to see the Brahmaputra right after the monsoon. (Though I can't say I'd love to have to deal with local flooding, especially in Guwahati.)





There's something I just love about the sunset here in Assam. Every evening, the sun just looks like a big red ball. It's probably the same dust that's been giving me grief, but it makes the sun look so pretty.



Alright, enough blogging for today. I've got to be up by 5 tomorrow to catch my ride back to Guwahati.

NEILS 6 - Last Day

I've been asked to write this year's conference report for the Linguistics of the Tibeto-Burman Area (LTBA) journal, so I probably do want to make some more notes while the impressions are still fresh in my mind. I don't think the Vice-Chancellor's opening speech I mentioned in my last post will make it into the report.

The past three days have been really inspiring. Sure, the quality of the papers hasn't always been the most desirable, but I got to meet a number of native speakers working on their own languages, as well as people who are doing really exciting things in minority language education (MLE). People who are interested in linguistic theory to various degrees, but who certainly haven't forgotten that people are the ones who use language.



It's heartening to see so many local students in attendance, even if most of them are doing courses in EFL training and the only reason many of them come up to talk to you is to ask to take a photo with you. (They just want photos with the foreign visitors.) I even had a few people take photos 'with me' without even asking.



Of course, there are advantages to being one of the 'foreign scholars' (and therefore more 'senior'). This morning I was sitting at a talk and suddenly choked on my saliva, resulting in a extended bout of coughing. Within minutes, one of the volunteers had come up to me with a bottle of water!

I really shouldn't get used to such service.

With any luck, I'll be at NEILS 7 next year with a whole lot of exciting work to present.

NEILS 6 - Day One

Today was the first day of the 6th annual North East Indian Linguistics Society (NEILS) conference taking place this year at Tezpur University just out of the town of Tezpur, Assam. It's a great place for people for linguists and language workers and teachers working in the region to come and meet.

Now, the last time I came for NEILS it was held in Shillong, Meghalaya. It was a bit of a last minute trip and I'd only decided to attend at the last moment (I actually ended up spending half that conference at Cherrapunjee near the Bangladeshi border, hiking down to see the Khasi root bridges made by 'training' ficus trees to grow their roots across rivers. It was a trip I had planned to do anyway, but it just so happened that someone else from the conference was going there at the time.)

So today was my first time presenting at NEILS - I gave a talk on verb nominalisation in Sumi and how monosyllabic, disyllabic and sesquisyllabic verbs behave differently with regards to such nominalisation. I got some pretty good feedback. It's also always nice to present on the first day of a conference. It means you can relax for the rest of the conference and actually focus on what everyone else is talking about. In my case, it also meant having only one sleepless night.

It was quite an invigorating day for me, given that I got through the paper with no major hiccups. Outside the talks, I also had a few meetings with other participants regarding developing minority language educational materials. The sort of work being done is something I found truly inspiring. It just made want to head back to Nagaland and get a team together to do this sort of work now.

Of course there were a few really painful, though quite amusing moments. The first was when the vice-chancellor of the university, who knew nothing about linguistics, gave his ridiculously long welcome speech at the opening ceremony in the morning. All the while trying to sound like he knew what he was on about. He kept referring to 'the linguistics' and I couldn't tell if he meant 'linguistics' as a discipline or if he just got the wrong word for 'linguists'. For some reason he assumed that the majority of participants came from Nagaland, which was odd because there's only one Naga participant here (unless you also count me, as an adopted Naga). Then he went on for a bit about Nagamese and how to his ears it's like Assamese but 'without the Naga influence' (or something like that). There were a few terrible anecdotes he shared, before he mentioned the fact that he had spent 4 years in Germany and learnt that there are German words like tschüss which aren't found in the dictionary because they're 'slang words used by the young people'! (see Wiktionary entry here)

It's moments like these when I'm glad I'm just a nobody at these conferences and not sitting on the stage having to contain myself in front of the whole crowd.

The second incident happened when a presenter was asked how old the language she was working on was.

Given that languages are constantly changing, the question of a language's age seems quite absurd. I was told later that the Indian government takes the 'age' of a language very seriously, as it is one of the criteria used to judge where a language should be considered a 'Modern Indian Language'. Scott DeLancey clarified that what they really mean is 'How long has the language been written / had a written script?' The belief is that a language is only 'born' when it is codified in some written form.

That means that many languages here are still in their infancy, while most are still unborn!