Sunday, November 11, 2012

The Silent Field (Yenguyelei Qha)

As part of the festivities for the annual post-harvest festival Ahunah (or Ahuna) in Zunheboto, the Sumi Cultural Association will be premiering the documentary The Silent Field (Yenguyelei Qha) today at 4.30pm at the Zunheboto Town Hall.


Shot over two years in villages across the district of Zunheboto, this film presents a selection of recorded material that covers over 25 groups performing different cultural activities associated with the traditional Sumi agricultural cycle. The film is part of a larger project aimed at documenting traditional rituals and songs that are no longer being transmitted to the next generation. Its title reflects the current anxiety associated with the loss of culture and identity among the Sumis.

A collaboration between old and young, foreign and local, this project hopes to create awareness and interest in traditional Sumi customs, and to help preserve the Sumi language and its various verbal art forms.


The makers of the film acknowledge and are grateful for the support of the Hans Rausing Endangered Languages Project, the Firebird Foundation for Anthropological Research, and the Sumi Cultural Association.

Thursday, November 8, 2012

Rural Resource and Training Centre

Last weekend, I needed a little time-out from everything. Things have been difficult for me on a lot of fronts lately. Fortunately, I knew someone residing at a place on the road between Guwahati and Shillong in neighbouring Meghalaya that sounded like a good retreat for the weekend. Even better, I managed to score a ride with some friends heading up to Shillong for a conference.

The place is called the 'Rural Resource and Training Centre' (or RRTC). If you're coming from Guwahati, it's about 18km past Nongpoh, near the town of Umran.

Rural Resource and Training Centre, Umran

It's one of many Don Bosco initiatives all over NE India. I was already friends with one of the two main priests based at the centre, Father Jose, a linguist who speaks many languages of the NE, and who's currently working on a dictionary of Tiwa. I was introduced to the other main priest, Father James during the course of my stay, who proved to be quite a magician and aping pong player!

Rural Resource and Training Centre, Umran

The centre typically hosts large groups of people coming in to do all sorts of training, from agriculture to bakery. They also get lots of guests popping in for a cup of tea. Recently, they hosted about 100 school dropouts doing some course on gaining employment - another friend of mine who was staying there at the time didn't think it was all that quiet.

Thankfully, it was nice and peaceful when I was there. Add to that near-constant electricity and water, lots of food, tea-making facilities, places to walk about, limited phone and internet connectivity, and it really made for a nice weekend get-away. Plus, I could talk to Father Jose about linguisticky things, dictionaries and community involvement.

The reception area (below) was also appropriately named because it was one of the few spots in the centre where I could get phone and internet reception! I really didn't mind the lack of connectivity for a few days though.

Rural Resource and Training Centre, Umran

There were also some reminders to the centre's guests, in both English and Khasi, the local language and one of the official languages of Meghalaya.

Rural Resource and Training Centre, Umran

The property on which the centre is built actually spans about 40 acres. It used to be 60 acres, but they sold off 20.

Rural Resource and Training Centre, Umran

What I found nice about all this space, was that I was able to go for long walks by myself, with no fear of insurgents or anyone worrying about me getting lost. Being higher in altitude than Guwahati, it was pretty cool, but not too cold.

Rural Resource and Training Centre, Umran

Most of the property are used for cultivating crops, including ginger (see below), turmeric and pineapples.

Rural Resource and Training Centre, Umran

Other parts of the property are used for rearing livestock, poultry, fish and also bees. These 'units' are also used as demonstration sites for groups who come to the centre to learn more about agricultural practices.

Rural Resource and Training Centre, Umran

There's a big focus on organic farming, and vermicomposting (composting using various worms). Ultimately, the aim is self-sufficiency, something my friend in Nagaland is also hoping to achieve with her business Organic Nagaland (see here).

You can see some of the results of their work: the papayas here were gigantic! If you didn't know what a papaya plant looked like, you'd have thought they were some kind of melon.

Rural Resource and Training Centre, Umran

Anyway, after 2 nights, it was back to Guwahati. I doubt I'll have time to visit again this trip, but I hope to be able to again soon. Diwali's coming up next week, but I'm off to Zunheboto in Nagaland again for the Sumi post-harvest festival, Ahunah.

Sunday, November 4, 2012

Zunheboto Church (under construction)

A few weeks ago, a friend saw a photo I had posted of Zunheboto town asked me what they were building on the hill. I suppose from afar one might think it was some kind of stadium, but anyone who's familiar with this part of the world would know that it's typically large churches you find at tops of hills.

View of Zunheboto town from DC Hill

It's been a few years (five?) since they demolished the main Baptist church in Zunheboto to build a larger one that can house most of the town's population (and that can provide sufficient parking). When I first visited Zunheboto back in February 2009, a friend took me into the construction site of the new church. Back then, it was only two storeys, but what shocked me was that pretty much anyone could just walk inside the construction site, climb up the makeshift bamboo stairs and go for a walk around the 1st floor.

Three and a half years on, the building's gone up a couple more storeys, but it's still pretty much open to anyone to walk in and take photos.

Zunheboto Church construction site

Zunheboto Church construction site

Zunheboto Church construction site

Zunheboto Church construction site

Zunheboto Church construction site

Zunheboto Church construction site
(Don't be fooled by the smile: I was quite terrified to be up there.)

My first thought was: occupational health and safety people would be having a fit! A few days later, I read a New York Times article a few weeks ago, titled "Safety Lessons from the Morgue", which reminded me of the current situation in India. One passage in particular struck me:

When Baker started her career in the 1960s, public health was still mostly about preventing disease, not injury. Tuberculosis and influenza killed tens of millions in the first part of the 20th century. To the extent that people were injured or lost their lives in accidents at home or at work or on the roads in between, corporate and government leaders generally viewed that as a cost of doing business, an unfortunate accompaniment to progress. It was the responsibility of the individual to keep himself safe from these dangers. [emphasis added]

Here, it's still pretty much the responsibility of people here to keep themselves out of harm's way. If I want to  wander around on a building site here, it's my responsibility to keep myself from falling off. In a similar vein, it's my own decision whether I want to use a seat belt or not, or to wear a helmet if I'm on a motorbike. Also, I'm not too sure about workers' 'rights' here, but I imagine that like early 20th century America, it's still seen as their 'responsibility' to look after themselves in such working environments (which by no means back home would be considered a 'safe working environment').

Still, one can only hope that as health risks decline across the country, occupational health and safety standards go up.

Wednesday, October 31, 2012

1st Sumi MT Literacy Development Workshop (Oct 2012)

For this special 200th post, I thought I'd cover something that I had the joy and honour of organising and running in Zunheboto last week. It was the very first Sumi Mother Tongue Literacy Development Workshop. The workshop ran from 23 Oct 2012 till 26 Oct 2012, and was conducted by the North East Literacy Network, represented by Palash Nath and Luke Horo, with the support of SIL International and also our wonderful benefactors in Melbourne, Inotoli Zhimomi and Nick Lenaghan.

Our very humble hand-written notice on the white board

It was hosted by the Sumi Literature Board and held at the Sütsah Academy in Zunheboto.

Sumi MT Literacy Workshop (Oct 2012)

Sumi MT Literacy Workshop (Oct 2012)

This workshop was meant to be a first step towards teaching Sumi as a subject in the private schools in Zunheboto (which mostly use English as the medium of instruction), with the further possibility of teaching content subjects in Sumi, along with a gradual transition to English. The philosophy here is that children learn better through a language they are familiar with. Importantly, they also learn to read and write more quickly in a language that they already know.

The first aim of this workshop was to introduce to the participants the importance and rationale behind the use of the mother tongue / home language in an educational setting. With a well-implemented program, research around the world has shown that children have the opportunity to to do better in school, and even learn other languages such as English better than children who are plunged into an all English-medium school from class 1, especially when they don't receive much exposure to English outside the classroom.

The second aim was to look at ways to develop a syllabus throughout the whole year. Here, the concept of a 'cultural calendar' was introduced, to get teachers to think about what the children are experiencing in the real world during every part of the calendar year, and using that to build the syllabus. Again, the focus is on moving from the familiar to the unfamiliar. This can then lead to 'reintroducing' children to more traditional practices that are no longer being transmitted from the older generation, and can serve as a kind of cultural revitalisation.

Sumi MT Literacy Workshop (Oct 2012)
Participants on the 2nd day of the workshop. 2nd and 3rd from the left: Scato Swu and Hokishe Yeptho (Sumi Literature Board)

The final aim was then to bring the participants through the process of producing basic materials to teach children to read in Sumi. One issue that consistently pops up in these workshops, as noted by Palash and Luke, is that the first time people write such stories, they are usually suitable for adults. The stories are often too long, the language too difficult, and the stories don't lend themselves to being 'pictured' (having a picture accompany every line of text).

About half of the workshop was spent on producing materials that children would be able to enjoy. Other materials included: primers, riddle books, rhymes, posters depicting scenes familiar to them. Younger ones may not necessarily be able to read the words in the story books, but the pictures should be able to help them (and older non-literate speakers of the language) follow the story.

Here we have some teachers (along with the talented Mr Toino) writing and illustrating their own childrens' books.
Sumi MT Literacy Workshop (Oct 2012)

Within just 4 days, the teachers managed to produce 10 books! Of course, they still need to be checked for spelling, grammar and punctuation, and also tested with children to see if the language used is appropriate, whether the pictures are able to tell the story etc. They will also eventually need to be graded by target age of the reader. 
Sumi MT Literacy Workshop (Oct 2012)




The teachers told us that the books they were working on at home generated a lot of interest and excitement amongst their families and neighbours. This is the kind of excitement we hope to continue to generate, as people see their language written down in formats they are not used to.

At the end of last day, the workshop facilitators were presented with these lovely traditional Sumi shawls / aqhumu. Technically, I think this particular shawl used to be worn only by men who had killed a mithun / avi / Indian bison. But I suppose nowadays it could be a symbol of any kind of accomplishment.

Sumi MT Literacy Workshop (Oct 2012)

From L to R: Luke Horo; myself; Jekügha Assümi (principal, Step by Step School); H S Rotokha; Nihoshe Jimomi (Sumi Literature Board); Palash Nath.

A VERY big thank you to the hosts, especially to H S Rotokha who came every single day for the duration of the workshop. And to the teachers: Sharon K Jimo, Aghatoli Jimo, Aviholi Kiba, Atoyi Awomi and Amento Achumi. Also special thanks to Toino, for helping us with the illustrations and kindly acting as our driver.


If you're Sumi and would like to help out with this project, please get in touch by leaving a comment below, or by contacting the Sütsah Academy. This is a long-term project that requires a lot of community support. We need people to come up with more stories - you may also want to ask your parents / grandparents for more traditional stories to draw inspiration from. We need people to do illustrations. We need people to help train others to create new materials, with the possibility for some people to be sent to Guwahati and elsewhere in India to receive further training from international and local experts.

Most importantly, we need people to advocate for the use of Sumi in schools, at least in the Zunheboto district where Sumi is the predominant language used in households. We are certainly aware of the need for English (and possibly Hindi) to get a job in India, but what we are trying to make people understand is that by introducing English through the mother tongue, children can actually go further (than simply parroting what is being taught in class and regurgitating it during exam time).

Saturday, October 27, 2012

Zunheboto Roads

Back in Dimapur now after another trip to Zunheboto, this time to help run a workshop on Sumi Mother Tongue Literacy, which I'll be blogging about as soon as I recover from the journey.

It's really sad that the roads to Zunheboto are all so terrible (see my previous post here), especially the Kohima-Chozuba-Zunheboto Road which has been abandoned now because they started expanding it, stopped work, then the rains came and you know...

Then once you get to Zunheboto town, the roads don't get any better. The roads aren't always resurfaced every year, and even when they are, they aren't done properly.
Zunheboto town

So during the monsoon, the main road through Project Colony becomes a mini-river whenever it rains.
Zunheboto town

Then when winter comes round and it stops raining, all you get is dust.
Zunheboto town

My friends came up to Zunheboto for the first time last week, and they were impressed by the natural beauty of the area, especially the neighbouring Tizu valley. I believe the phrase 'just like paradise' was used.

But they really weren't impressed by the road conditions! I know people from Zunheboto read my blog occasionally, so come on Zunheboto, you can do so much better!

Sunset from Project Colony, Zunheboto

Monday, October 22, 2012

Million Dollar Bill

The past two week I've been receiving messages from an Assamese guy who used to work at the guest house I was staying in in Guwahati. (I've found out that he's since been fired.)

It started with half a dozen missed calls on my phone after I'd just gotten back from a trip to Nagaland. He then left a message asking if I could give him a minute of my time.

When I rang him back, he asked me if I 'knew about a million dollars'. It took a while before he told me that his brother had in his possession a 'US one million dollar note'. He wanted me to see if it was real or a 'duplicate'.

Although novelty million dollar notes are allowed and have been printed out (according to Wikipedia), but none are legal tender. I told him there was no such thing as a 'US million dollar bill', and that you can't have a duplicate of something that isn't real.

A few days ago, I got this second message:

Brow right now i m having 1 million doler... (united kingdom) brow can u seck that note pz.. pz met me...i will go to ur place

[Note: seck means 'check' - 'ch' becomes 's' as a result of influence from Assamese]

Saturday, October 20, 2012

The Chinese are coming

Yesterday marked the 50th anniversary of the start of the 1962 Sino-Indian War, which saw fighting between India and China over two disputed border territories in the Western and Eastern parts of the Himalayans. There was probably more to the war than the border dispute (Tibet had been annexed, the Dalai Lama had also recently been granted asylum by India) - the Wikipedia page has a list of references about the war.

The conflict was never actually resolved, and Arunachal Pradesh / South Tibet just to the north of Assam is still claimed by both India and China. Even today, while other NE Indian states have removed the need for foreigners to obtain Restricted Area Permits (RAPs) or Protected Area Permits (PAPs), visitors to Arunachal still need a permit.

Here're some articles about the 50th anniversary:

The other night I was sitting in a friend's house in Guwahati listening to her friend, a former DCO (district coordination officer) who'd worked all over Assam. He was telling a little joke / anecdote (of dubious historical authenticity) about the war. 

The story went like this. A Marwari (Rajasthani) trader had a business in a town near the border between Assam and Arunachal. One day, on the eve of the war, he caused a massive panic in town when he was heard saying, "Chini ahise." Everyone thought he'd meant 'The Chinese are coming.' or 'The Chinese have come.'

Of course, he just meant that the 'sugar' had arrived.