How to post a wood plate in 12 easy steps

Note: the wood plate (asükhu in Sümi) I'm referring to is a traditional Naga plate with its own stand carved from a single piece of wood (such as teak).

Step 1
Ask at the India Post counter at Kisama during the Hornbill Festival if they have a parcel box large enough for the plate. Receive confirmation that such a box exists and can be sent internationally.

Step 2
Go and purchase a plate at one of the festival stalls (1,200 Rs).

Step 3
Return to the India Post counter to discover that none of the boxes there are large enough. Tell them you will go back to the main post office in Kohima to send the parcel. They tell you that there will be boxes there.

Step 4
Take the plate to the India Post Office in Kohima.

Step 5
Discover that there are no boxes large enough, but the bookshop across the street can help with packaging.

Step 6
Go to the bookshop with the plate and ask them if they have a box (or 'carton' as people usually call them here).

Step 7
Watch as they try to squeeze the plate into a cardboard box that is clearly too small for the plate, then line the inside of the box with styrofoam before trying to squeeze the plate in again, even though the box is already buldging. The box is then tied up and taken away to be wrapped in cloth and stitched up.

Step 8
Wait one hour at the bookshop for the parcel to come back, then watch as they apply red sealing wax all over the parcel. (Optional step: purchase a copy of People magazine to pass the time.)

Step 9
Pay for the packagaing service (250 Rs).

Step 10
Bring the parcel back to the post office and write the addressee's details all over the parcel, along with contact details and 'FRAGILE' and 'HANDLE WITH CARE'.

Step 11
Pay the fee for registered mail (1,000 Rs).

Step 12
PRAY that it gets to the intended destination in one piece!

The package without addressee details etc.

(Mum, if you're reading this, please take a photo of it if / when it arrives before opening it - although I suspect that it might already have been torn open by then.)

Mighty Mithun

Seeing all the signs for 'Nagaland, Land of Festivals', it's pretty clear how the current tourism department is trying to promote the state. (Of course it probably feeds the Indian preconception that all people do here is party and celebrate in tribal outfits - but I won't rant in this post again.)



Instead, what I want to point out is the animal on the poster. It's the state animal, known as a 'mithun' or 'Indian bison'. I would call it a 'gaur', rhyming with both 'power' and 'sour' - apt descriptions of the animal or so I recall from reading Willard Price's Indian Adventure as a kid. According to Wikipedia 'mithun' refers to the domesticated variety, but people here call even the wild ones 'mithun'.

They are pretty massive, being larger than African buffalo. Their skulls adorn many important houses around Nagaland, although nowadays the typical method of execution is a bullet through the forehead so you'll see a little hole at the front. The meat is also eaten - it's no surprise that it tastes like beef, just maybe a bit more gamey. There are a number of different hybrids of cattle and mithun (I have about 5 of their names in Sumi, though I'm not really sure how many combinations are possible - quarter cow, three quarters mithun?).

On our way to Satoi last week, we saw one on the road which ran off as the vehicle passed by. We then saw a group of guys along the road who were presumably going on a hunt for that mithun. On our way back, we spotted another one, but it had an oddly white face and slightly pinkish eyes - like it was albino, but only from the neck up. I caught these on my camera as we were driving by.

Looking a bit like a demon buffalo?

Cultural showcase or cultural zoo?

At the Hornbill Festival, I took this photo of some performers waiting to enter the stage area. Aware that their butts were hanging out of their costumes, I was a little hesitant to take the photo without asking their permission, perhaps being a little too culturally sensitive.

But as at the Ahuna festival, it was a local friend who suggested I take the shot, and I reasoned that this was a performance, these people were in costume and there were going to be cameras all over them in a second anyway.



A few minutes later, while the same performers were getting ready to go onstage, this is what I saw. I think the guy on the left was American, and I heard the guy on the right speaking in French.



Now surely there's a limit to what you can and cannot do with your camera in such situations. I still don't know what to think of these guys. They probably wanted a better angle of the performers for their photo collections, but come on, these are still people here! I suppose it would have been a completely different thing if the performers were actually posing for the photos as well.

Anyway, on the final day of the festival, I saw a tall blond woman walking around the stage perimeter shoving her camera lens in front of people in the audience (while performances were going on). She wasn't alone, there was an Indian guy doing the same thing. It was with a little satisfaction that, as she was photographing the Dimasa performers, one guy asked her stood up and asked for a photo with him using his phone camera. He then dressed her in one of the scarves that the women were wearing, which he took back after the photo had been taken.

I suppose as an obvious foreigner here, she must get quite a lot of stares (I'm sure my friend Lauren can empathise when she's in Nepal), no matter how she's dressed. The man who took a photo of her will probably be showing it off to all his friends for some time to come, the way she'll be showing off her pictures of 'ethnic people' to her friends.

Maybe such events are just meant to be a bit of a zoo for everyone.

Hornbill Festival 2010

Here're a few photos from this year's Hornbill Festival (1 Dec - 7 Dec). It's held every year at this time here in Kohima - though the festival ground itself is in the village of Kisama, which is a bit of a drive to get to and the traffic coming back into Kohima was atrocious both times I went. There were other activities in and around Kohima too, like a night bazaar, the Miss Nagaland 2010 beauty pageant and the Hornbill Rock Contest.

I only made the trip out to Kisama twice given that I was in Zunheboto till the third day of the festival, and had spent most of the fourth day travelling. Anyway, I managed to catch a number of performances on the main stage, see replicas of the morungs (the traditional boys dormitories) of all the major tribes in Nagaland, check out the WWII museum, and even bought Mum that asükhu (wood plate on a stand) that she asked for (the guy at India Post assured me they could deliver it, but I'm having my doubts).

I don't have a lot of commentary on the festival itself. Given the diversity of the performers and performances, I'm finding it a little hard to remember what I saw and the significance of each performance. I don't really mind that many of the performances wouldn't be considered 'authentic' by even a lay anthropologist, since the festival gives the numerous cultural associations around the state a chance to showcase some of the traditional songs, dances and games that they're trying to maintain. (I'm saving other criticisms I have for another post.)

One of the entrances to the festival grounds


Participants waiting to perform


Pochury women, having just played a traditional game of catch


A nice touch on the last day of the festival

Eating chillies

Yesterday at the Hornbill Festival, they held a Naga Chilli eating competition for the first time. The winner popped 8 of the fiery peppers, known as raja mircha, ('king chilli'), Naga jolokia, bhut jolokia.

This may not seem like a lot to people used to popping  which may not sound like a lot, unless you know that these chillies have been found to rate up to 1,041,427 units on the Scoville scale which is a measure of spicy heat. Wikipedia gives the rating for Tabasco sauce as between 2,500 to 5,000 units, while bird's eye chillies rate between 50,000 to 100,000 units. The only chilli hotter than raja mircha is a hybrid called the Naga Viper made by cross-breeding the raja mircha and two other chillies and was developed in the UK.

Prize-winning chillies at the horticultural centre next to the Hornbill Festival grounds at Kisama.


In any case, these are still the hottest chillies in the world that are being cultivated and consumed en masse. There are even reports that the Indian army plan to put them in hand grenades. Dangerous stuff.

Cucumber baby

So I'm spending a few days in Kohima, the state capital of Nagaland. I'm in town mainly for the Hornbill Festival, but also to meet with one of the linguistics professors at Nagaland University, as well as to sort out some other 'administrative' things like an extenstion to my current permit *fingers crossed* and Tata mobile internet for when I'm in Dimapur and Assam (I'm not sure if the Tata Photon Plus will work in Zunheboto, *fingers crossed*).

I'm staying with B., who's organised both my permits to enter Nagaland, and her husband. They live next to the original Kohima village site known as Tsütuonuomia Khel or more commonly, T-Khel. The term khel refers to a village sub-division - nowadays it almost corresponds to the local term 'colony' (or 'suburb' to most Anglophones).



In Angami tradition, villages (and khels) were generally named after their founders. Hence the name Tsütuonuomia, the founder of this khel, whose name translates as 'cucumber baby'.

Now the story goes that there was once a cowherd who would take her cattle down to where the road between Kohima and Dimapur now runs. She got pregnant out of wedlock, which I assume was the guy's fault, but women always get the blame. Ashamed, she covered up the pregnancy until the time came to give birth. She then ran away to the fields to have the child in secret (most certainly without a midwife). On her way back and still ashamed, she covered the child in a blanket. When people asked what she was carrying, she told them it was cucumber.

And so the child was named 'cucumber baby' and grew up to found this khel.

Visit to Satoi (II)

When we arrived in Satoi, it became clear that our little 'sightseeing' trip would involve a little more than sightseeing. It was the 50th anniversary of the local pastor's appointment in the village and the occasion was in away a retirement party for him. I think it was also meant to commemorate his 75th birthday. Arriving with the reverend meant more VIP treatment - this time we got chappatis and avi kighinoli (mithun innards) and more cups of milk and black tea.

We were then led into the church, where the service was held.




I was a little embarrassed because they first ushered me right to the front to sit on the couches in the front row, when even the pastor was sitting on a plastic chair. At least we managed to give our seats to the pastor and his wife, but I ended up sitting in front of other guests of honour. During the service, I also had to stand and give a little wave while Ab. introduced me to the whole congregation - being a foreigner, having an MA and having worked on Sumi is apparently enough to attract this kind of attention. At the end of the service, I was presented, along with the other VIPs, with a bag containing a book about the pastor's life.

Then there was the feast following the service. To be fair, I could've taken a little less food without offending anyone, but I counted no less than four kinds of meat: pork, chicken, beef and mithun, cooked in a whole host of ways. And a lot more fat... but at least there were fresh vegetables. I only had one serving, which was more than enough...


On our way back from Satoi, we managed to stop a few times to take photos of the valley. You can see Zunheboto town on the ridge just off to the right.


We also stopped again in Ghokhüvi to look at some of the Baptist conference preparations. I really liked the traditional wind chimes that adorned the entrance to the main venue.



A view of Ghokhüvi from the bottom of the village


Leaving the village, we had to drive again down to the base of the valley and up again. This time we had a bit more time, so we stopped for photos at the bridge right near the confluence of the Tizü and Tsütha Rivers. It's a very pretty valley.



The Tsütha River just before it joins the Tizü




I had a great day, despite the initial embarrassment and over-eating. Looking forward to visiting other villages and having more feasts!