This afternoon I'm flying back to Delhi, where, with any luck, I'll catch my connecting flight to Singapore. I've given myself 6 hours between the two flights, but one never knows.
The last time I left India feeling completely traumatised. One of the reasons was that I'd spent a few days in Guwahati and was paranoid about bed bugs from below and mosquitoes from above, so I didn't get to sleep much for 2 days. Then I had to go to Kolkata for another night before flying back, and I really just wanted to get home by then.
In contrast I'm a little sad to leave this time, though I'm planning to be back later this year. In fact, part of me can't wait to come back to the NE next time to see all the friends I've made and to do all the projects I need to do. Even if it hasn't been completely smooth sailing, I've had an amazing last 3 months in India, and a fantastic month and a half in Nepal before that.
But I'm not going to jinx it too much, since a lot can still happen between now and my flight back to Singapore, like having to push a car on the highway, a delayed flight, a cancelled flight, or luggage getting cut (all of which have already happened on this trip!).
So farewell India for now.
Thursday, February 3, 2011
Shibboleths in North-east India
Most students of linguistics (and sociolinguistics) will be familiar with the term shibboleth or shibboleth test which refers to a word or phrase that is used to prove a speaker's membership to a particular group, usually along national or ethnic lines - members of the opposing group are identified by their different pronunciation of this word or phrase. Such tests have been used in times of war to determine 'friend from foe', and are still being used quite controversially by immigration departments to test people seeking refugee status, since its use assumes linguistic features must correlate with nationality or ethnicity.
At the NEILS conference I was told of two such shibboleths used in the NE India in recent times. In Assam, at the height of the 'Assam Agitation' nationalist movement from 1979 to 1985, people were often made to count from 1 to 7 to see if they were 'Assamese' or an illegal 'Bengali'. The idea is that in Assamese the number is 7 is pronounced [xat] with a velar fricative [x] (I reckon it's closer to a velar approximant), while in Bengali / Bangla the number is pronounced [sat] (a much more conservative pronunciation if one compares it to Hindi and Nepali [sat]). The instant the speaker said [sat], they were hit and taken away (or worse).
Another NEILS conference participant from Mizoram recounted a similar story from a time when the Mizoram government was trying to stymie illegal immigration from the Burmese side. From memory, it was members of the Ralte tribe moving into Mizoram from Burma. The test involved them saying the word for 'chicken'. The main difference between the dialects spoken on the Mizoram and on the Burmese sides was that one group said the word with a lateral sound [l] while the other used the rhotic [r].
Apparently there was a man who had crossed over and upon being told to say the word for 'chicken' (I assume someone pointed to the actual animal and asked him to say what it was), he asked the border guard if he could say the word for 'pig' instead.
At the NEILS conference I was told of two such shibboleths used in the NE India in recent times. In Assam, at the height of the 'Assam Agitation' nationalist movement from 1979 to 1985, people were often made to count from 1 to 7 to see if they were 'Assamese' or an illegal 'Bengali'. The idea is that in Assamese the number is 7 is pronounced [xat] with a velar fricative [x] (I reckon it's closer to a velar approximant), while in Bengali / Bangla the number is pronounced [sat] (a much more conservative pronunciation if one compares it to Hindi and Nepali [sat]). The instant the speaker said [sat], they were hit and taken away (or worse).
Another NEILS conference participant from Mizoram recounted a similar story from a time when the Mizoram government was trying to stymie illegal immigration from the Burmese side. From memory, it was members of the Ralte tribe moving into Mizoram from Burma. The test involved them saying the word for 'chicken'. The main difference between the dialects spoken on the Mizoram and on the Burmese sides was that one group said the word with a lateral sound [l] while the other used the rhotic [r].
Apparently there was a man who had crossed over and upon being told to say the word for 'chicken' (I assume someone pointed to the actual animal and asked him to say what it was), he asked the border guard if he could say the word for 'pig' instead.
Wednesday, February 2, 2011
Around Tezpur
No conference is complete without a little sightseeing excursion around the local town. On the second day of the NEILS conference, we got a chance to see visit a few scenic spots around the town of Tezpur. Leaving at 3.30pm wasn't ideal (especially when the sun sets around 4.30), but it was still a pleasant little trip.
We started at Bamuni Hill, where the ruins are said to date from the 10th to 12th centuries. From my rather sketchy knowledge of the history of Assam, I think it means they were built during the time of the Kamarupan Kingdom which precedes the Ahom Kingdom which was founded by invading Tai speaking people from what is now Burma / Myanmar.
The thing is, most of the 'ruins' were just lying exposed to the elements, with people allowed to walk all over them. Given the yearly monsoon, most of them looked surprisingly unweathered. It seems a tad bit silly to excavate them just TO lay them out in the open for people to trample on. But I suppose it makes more sense than shipping them off to some faraway museum.
The second stop was a place called Agnigarh - agni means 'fire' and garh means 'fort'. There was a story associated with the place, something about an asura who wanted to keep his daughter from the rest of the world but she ended up marrying someone in secret anyway. I think the 'fire' bit is because the fort was said to have been surrounded by fire. (The Wikipedia article seems to agree with what I was told.)
There was a lovely view of the Brahmaputra River from the top of the hill, even if the water level was very low. I'd love to see the Brahmaputra right after the monsoon. (Though I can't say I'd love to have to deal with local flooding, especially in Guwahati.)
There's something I just love about the sunset here in Assam. Every evening, the sun just looks like a big red ball. It's probably the same dust that's been giving me grief, but it makes the sun look so pretty.
Alright, enough blogging for today. I've got to be up by 5 tomorrow to catch my ride back to Guwahati.
We started at Bamuni Hill, where the ruins are said to date from the 10th to 12th centuries. From my rather sketchy knowledge of the history of Assam, I think it means they were built during the time of the Kamarupan Kingdom which precedes the Ahom Kingdom which was founded by invading Tai speaking people from what is now Burma / Myanmar.
The thing is, most of the 'ruins' were just lying exposed to the elements, with people allowed to walk all over them. Given the yearly monsoon, most of them looked surprisingly unweathered. It seems a tad bit silly to excavate them just TO lay them out in the open for people to trample on. But I suppose it makes more sense than shipping them off to some faraway museum.
The second stop was a place called Agnigarh - agni means 'fire' and garh means 'fort'. There was a story associated with the place, something about an asura who wanted to keep his daughter from the rest of the world but she ended up marrying someone in secret anyway. I think the 'fire' bit is because the fort was said to have been surrounded by fire. (The Wikipedia article seems to agree with what I was told.)
There was a lovely view of the Brahmaputra River from the top of the hill, even if the water level was very low. I'd love to see the Brahmaputra right after the monsoon. (Though I can't say I'd love to have to deal with local flooding, especially in Guwahati.)
There's something I just love about the sunset here in Assam. Every evening, the sun just looks like a big red ball. It's probably the same dust that's been giving me grief, but it makes the sun look so pretty.
Alright, enough blogging for today. I've got to be up by 5 tomorrow to catch my ride back to Guwahati.
NEILS 6 - Last Day
I've been asked to write this year's conference report for the Linguistics of the Tibeto-Burman Area (LTBA) journal, so I probably do want to make some more notes while the impressions are still fresh in my mind. I don't think the Vice-Chancellor's opening speech I mentioned in my last post will make it into the report.
The past three days have been really inspiring. Sure, the quality of the papers hasn't always been the most desirable, but I got to meet a number of native speakers working on their own languages, as well as people who are doing really exciting things in minority language education (MLE). People who are interested in linguistic theory to various degrees, but who certainly haven't forgotten that people are the ones who use language.
It's heartening to see so many local students in attendance, even if most of them are doing courses in EFL training and the only reason many of them come up to talk to you is to ask to take a photo with you. (They just want photos with the foreign visitors.) I even had a few people take photos 'with me' without even asking.
Of course, there are advantages to being one of the 'foreign scholars' (and therefore more 'senior'). This morning I was sitting at a talk and suddenly choked on my saliva, resulting in a extended bout of coughing. Within minutes, one of the volunteers had come up to me with a bottle of water!
I really shouldn't get used to such service.
With any luck, I'll be at NEILS 7 next year with a whole lot of exciting work to present.
The past three days have been really inspiring. Sure, the quality of the papers hasn't always been the most desirable, but I got to meet a number of native speakers working on their own languages, as well as people who are doing really exciting things in minority language education (MLE). People who are interested in linguistic theory to various degrees, but who certainly haven't forgotten that people are the ones who use language.
It's heartening to see so many local students in attendance, even if most of them are doing courses in EFL training and the only reason many of them come up to talk to you is to ask to take a photo with you. (They just want photos with the foreign visitors.) I even had a few people take photos 'with me' without even asking.
Of course, there are advantages to being one of the 'foreign scholars' (and therefore more 'senior'). This morning I was sitting at a talk and suddenly choked on my saliva, resulting in a extended bout of coughing. Within minutes, one of the volunteers had come up to me with a bottle of water!
I really shouldn't get used to such service.
With any luck, I'll be at NEILS 7 next year with a whole lot of exciting work to present.
Monday, January 31, 2011
NEILS 6 - Day One
Today was the first day of the 6th annual North East Indian Linguistics Society (NEILS) conference taking place this year at Tezpur University just out of the town of Tezpur, Assam. It's a great place for people for linguists and language workers and teachers working in the region to come and meet.
Now, the last time I came for NEILS it was held in Shillong, Meghalaya. It was a bit of a last minute trip and I'd only decided to attend at the last moment (I actually ended up spending half that conference at Cherrapunjee near the Bangladeshi border, hiking down to see the Khasi root bridges made by 'training' ficus trees to grow their roots across rivers. It was a trip I had planned to do anyway, but it just so happened that someone else from the conference was going there at the time.)
So today was my first time presenting at NEILS - I gave a talk on verb nominalisation in Sumi and how monosyllabic, disyllabic and sesquisyllabic verbs behave differently with regards to such nominalisation. I got some pretty good feedback. It's also always nice to present on the first day of a conference. It means you can relax for the rest of the conference and actually focus on what everyone else is talking about. In my case, it also meant having only one sleepless night.
It was quite an invigorating day for me, given that I got through the paper with no major hiccups. Outside the talks, I also had a few meetings with other participants regarding developing minority language educational materials. The sort of work being done is something I found truly inspiring. It just made want to head back to Nagaland and get a team together to do this sort of work now.
Of course there were a few really painful, though quite amusing moments. The first was when the vice-chancellor of the university, who knew nothing about linguistics, gave his ridiculously long welcome speech at the opening ceremony in the morning. All the while trying to sound like he knew what he was on about. He kept referring to 'the linguistics' and I couldn't tell if he meant 'linguistics' as a discipline or if he just got the wrong word for 'linguists'. For some reason he assumed that the majority of participants came from Nagaland, which was odd because there's only one Naga participant here (unless you also count me, as an adopted Naga). Then he went on for a bit about Nagamese and how to his ears it's like Assamese but 'without the Naga influence' (or something like that). There were a few terrible anecdotes he shared, before he mentioned the fact that he had spent 4 years in Germany and learnt that there are German words like tschüss which aren't found in the dictionary because they're 'slang words used by the young people'! (see Wiktionary entry here)
It's moments like these when I'm glad I'm just a nobody at these conferences and not sitting on the stage having to contain myself in front of the whole crowd.
The second incident happened when a presenter was asked how old the language she was working on was.
Given that languages are constantly changing, the question of a language's age seems quite absurd. I was told later that the Indian government takes the 'age' of a language very seriously, as it is one of the criteria used to judge where a language should be considered a 'Modern Indian Language'. Scott DeLancey clarified that what they really mean is 'How long has the language been written / had a written script?' The belief is that a language is only 'born' when it is codified in some written form.
That means that many languages here are still in their infancy, while most are still unborn!
Now, the last time I came for NEILS it was held in Shillong, Meghalaya. It was a bit of a last minute trip and I'd only decided to attend at the last moment (I actually ended up spending half that conference at Cherrapunjee near the Bangladeshi border, hiking down to see the Khasi root bridges made by 'training' ficus trees to grow their roots across rivers. It was a trip I had planned to do anyway, but it just so happened that someone else from the conference was going there at the time.)
So today was my first time presenting at NEILS - I gave a talk on verb nominalisation in Sumi and how monosyllabic, disyllabic and sesquisyllabic verbs behave differently with regards to such nominalisation. I got some pretty good feedback. It's also always nice to present on the first day of a conference. It means you can relax for the rest of the conference and actually focus on what everyone else is talking about. In my case, it also meant having only one sleepless night.
It was quite an invigorating day for me, given that I got through the paper with no major hiccups. Outside the talks, I also had a few meetings with other participants regarding developing minority language educational materials. The sort of work being done is something I found truly inspiring. It just made want to head back to Nagaland and get a team together to do this sort of work now.
Of course there were a few really painful, though quite amusing moments. The first was when the vice-chancellor of the university, who knew nothing about linguistics, gave his ridiculously long welcome speech at the opening ceremony in the morning. All the while trying to sound like he knew what he was on about. He kept referring to 'the linguistics' and I couldn't tell if he meant 'linguistics' as a discipline or if he just got the wrong word for 'linguists'. For some reason he assumed that the majority of participants came from Nagaland, which was odd because there's only one Naga participant here (unless you also count me, as an adopted Naga). Then he went on for a bit about Nagamese and how to his ears it's like Assamese but 'without the Naga influence' (or something like that). There were a few terrible anecdotes he shared, before he mentioned the fact that he had spent 4 years in Germany and learnt that there are German words like tschüss which aren't found in the dictionary because they're 'slang words used by the young people'! (see Wiktionary entry here)
It's moments like these when I'm glad I'm just a nobody at these conferences and not sitting on the stage having to contain myself in front of the whole crowd.
The second incident happened when a presenter was asked how old the language she was working on was.
Given that languages are constantly changing, the question of a language's age seems quite absurd. I was told later that the Indian government takes the 'age' of a language very seriously, as it is one of the criteria used to judge where a language should be considered a 'Modern Indian Language'. Scott DeLancey clarified that what they really mean is 'How long has the language been written / had a written script?' The belief is that a language is only 'born' when it is codified in some written form.
That means that many languages here are still in their infancy, while most are still unborn!
Sunday, January 30, 2011
The language holding Malays, Tamils and Chinese together
On the Johnson blog at the Economist, there was a post a few days ago titled, "The language holding Malays, Tamils and Chinese together", on the choice to adopt Standard English (and the author also mentions Mandarin) as the working language of the country.
While I think the article itself doesn't consider the sociolinguistic reality, focusing mainly on the language policy the government had adopted - yes, Standard English has been adopted but if I were to speak 'Standard English' in most situations in Singapore, I'd be considered somewhat of a snob. You know, really tao and all.
What I find ironic is that the people who push for Standard English to be spoken (some of whom have taken to defacing public signs that use 'bad English' - I'll need to find the link to this at some point), as opposed to 'Singlish' are often people whose English I would consider to be substandard. Just look at the first comment on this blog post:
I have no doubt Singaporean has good grasp or command of English, but
its Singlish or Malish (Malaysian) does give a goose bump when speaking loudly in public.
Singlish is a typical pidgin language or bad creolization of many "pasar(market)" loan words from typically Hokkien or Malay. I hope
Singaporean should pick up LKY style of spoken English but not those
of Goh Chok Tong's English.
Discounting the possibility of unintentional typos, the way this person writes reflects a variety of English that I wouldn't consider to be anywhere near 'LKY's style of spoken English'. To expect other 'Singaporean' to pick up LKY style of spoken English is just plain hypocrisy.
And of course, it's simply absurd to suggest that people follow a particular PM / SM / MM's style of speaking. It's usually politicians and royalty who end up adjusting their speech to match that of their supporters / followers, not the other way round.
While I think the article itself doesn't consider the sociolinguistic reality, focusing mainly on the language policy the government had adopted - yes, Standard English has been adopted but if I were to speak 'Standard English' in most situations in Singapore, I'd be considered somewhat of a snob. You know, really tao and all.
What I find ironic is that the people who push for Standard English to be spoken (some of whom have taken to defacing public signs that use 'bad English' - I'll need to find the link to this at some point), as opposed to 'Singlish' are often people whose English I would consider to be substandard. Just look at the first comment on this blog post:
I have no doubt Singaporean has good grasp or command of English, but
its Singlish or Malish (Malaysian) does give a goose bump when speaking loudly in public.
Singlish is a typical pidgin language or bad creolization of many "pasar(market)" loan words from typically Hokkien or Malay. I hope
Singaporean should pick up LKY style of spoken English but not those
of Goh Chok Tong's English.
Discounting the possibility of unintentional typos, the way this person writes reflects a variety of English that I wouldn't consider to be anywhere near 'LKY's style of spoken English'. To expect other 'Singaporean' to pick up LKY style of spoken English is just plain hypocrisy.
And of course, it's simply absurd to suggest that people follow a particular PM / SM / MM's style of speaking. It's usually politicians and royalty who end up adjusting their speech to match that of their supporters / followers, not the other way round.
Friday, January 28, 2011
Some people want to be teachers
I remember a small incident from the year I spent on exchange in France. I was in Lourdes for a few days and I recall I was looking for a cemetery as I was coming down from the fort. I found a lady at the tourist counter and asked her "Excusez-moi madame, mais où est-ce que la cimetière?" ('Excuse me madame, where is 'la' cemetery?)
Her reply was "Non non monsieur, c'est "le" cimetière." ('No sir, it's 'le' cemetery.')
Now I had mistaken the noun cimetière as being feminine (like a number of other nouns ending in -ière) that needs the article la, when in actual fact it is a masculine noun. Of course, at the time I was tired, hungry and really not in the mood for a French lesson, but it's something that has stuck with me since, and I haven't forgotten the gender of the noun cimetière. It wasn't the first time I had been corrected by a complete stranger in France, and it's something I've actually come to appreciate.
But there are ways to teach and there are ways to teach. Fast forward to this week, here in the Guwahati University guest house. A few days ago I met a visiting Assamese writer from the nearby town of Tezpur (where I'm heading tomorrow). The instant he found out I was learning Assamese, he started telling others at the guest house that the only reason I came to Assam was to learn Assamese, which just isn't true. Making conversation has also been difficult with him - he's quite pretentious and is certainly very proud of himself and where he comes from. To him, Assam is the most beautiful state in India, and Tezpur is the most beautiful town in Assam.
But what really got to me was when he started talking to me about a certain kind of banana that they gave us at breakfast yesterday. It's a local variety that they've been feeding the guests here (or trying to feed) that's quite starchy and has the texture closer to a plaintain. It's not very sweet either and feels like it needs to be cooked first. Suffice to say, I really don't like it. The Assamese writer started telling me it was very good Assamese banana and very good for digestion.
I refused to comment.
Then he said to me, 'In Assamese, they are called malbhog. Malbhog. Say it.'
The first thought in my head was actually, "F*ck you, you pretentious wanker". I mean, who the hell did this guy think he was? But in the end I mumbled something with my mouth full, which made him repeat what he'd just said.
So rather than continuing the conversation, I just took a small bite out of my malbhog and left the rest on my plate for him to see.
(And in case you're wondering, I didn't actually remember the name of the banana after this conversation. I had to ask my tutor for the name again.)
Her reply was "Non non monsieur, c'est "le" cimetière." ('No sir, it's 'le' cemetery.')
Now I had mistaken the noun cimetière as being feminine (like a number of other nouns ending in -ière) that needs the article la, when in actual fact it is a masculine noun. Of course, at the time I was tired, hungry and really not in the mood for a French lesson, but it's something that has stuck with me since, and I haven't forgotten the gender of the noun cimetière. It wasn't the first time I had been corrected by a complete stranger in France, and it's something I've actually come to appreciate.
But there are ways to teach and there are ways to teach. Fast forward to this week, here in the Guwahati University guest house. A few days ago I met a visiting Assamese writer from the nearby town of Tezpur (where I'm heading tomorrow). The instant he found out I was learning Assamese, he started telling others at the guest house that the only reason I came to Assam was to learn Assamese, which just isn't true. Making conversation has also been difficult with him - he's quite pretentious and is certainly very proud of himself and where he comes from. To him, Assam is the most beautiful state in India, and Tezpur is the most beautiful town in Assam.
But what really got to me was when he started talking to me about a certain kind of banana that they gave us at breakfast yesterday. It's a local variety that they've been feeding the guests here (or trying to feed) that's quite starchy and has the texture closer to a plaintain. It's not very sweet either and feels like it needs to be cooked first. Suffice to say, I really don't like it. The Assamese writer started telling me it was very good Assamese banana and very good for digestion.
I refused to comment.
Then he said to me, 'In Assamese, they are called malbhog. Malbhog. Say it.'
The first thought in my head was actually, "F*ck you, you pretentious wanker". I mean, who the hell did this guy think he was? But in the end I mumbled something with my mouth full, which made him repeat what he'd just said.
So rather than continuing the conversation, I just took a small bite out of my malbhog and left the rest on my plate for him to see.
(And in case you're wondering, I didn't actually remember the name of the banana after this conversation. I had to ask my tutor for the name again.)
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