Nagaland village focus: Vishepu

Given the number of villages I've managed to visit in Nagaland, I thought I'd do a 'village focus' post for specific ones. This first one has a special place in my heart, because in a sense it's where my relationship with Nagaland started. My friend I., who now lives in Melbourne hails from this village, and it's thanks to her that I started learning Sumi.

A few months ago, Vishepu made it into the local news because some white smoke was seen coming from the top of Mt Vishepu, which is right next to the village. Reports of a new volcano proved unfounded, although no one's quite certain what the cause of the smoke was - some reckon it was just steam being released.

In any case, Vishepu was the first village I visited in Nagaland, back in early 2009 (so it's almost been 3 years since I first came here). I posted some photos on Flickr a while back. One of I.'s sisters was amazed that when she recently googled 'Vishepu', she didn't just find images of her village, but also one of her parents' home!

Vishepu is a Sumi village in Zunheboto district just south of Satakha. It's one of the last villages before you enter Phek district to the south, which is predominantly Chakhesang. It was founded by two brothers, Zükiye and Vishepu. Although Zükiye was the elder brother, he let the village be named after Vishepu. Today the village has four chiefs, two from the Zükiye side of the family, and two from the Vishepu side.

To get to Vishepu from Satakha, you head south along the Chazuba Road, then turn left up the road that leads to the village of Xüivi at the top of the range. You pass Xüivi, then continue down the other side of the range.

This is Vishepu as viewed from the road between Xüivi and Vishepu.


And this is Vishepu as viewed from the top of the church tower and from in front of the church.




I took this shot a few days ago - the light on the surrounding hills was so pretty that day.


This is I.'s parents' house, as seen in Feb 2009. He's one of the village chiefs and you can a few mithun skulls on the front of the house, as well as what I think is a deer skull. This Christmas they're adding another mithun skull, since one was killed for the Christmas feast thrown by I. and her husband.


In Zunheboto district, Vishepu is famous for its woodwork and is reputed to be the first village to start crafting wood plates (asükhu). Here, I.'s father Kiviho explains to H S Rotokha about the history of woodworking in the village. (These photos were taken a few days ago.)


A new asükhu being made from a single piece of wood - I should've bought one of them from the village instead of getting one at the Hornbill Festival!


I've got Christmas feast photos too, but given how slow the internet is, uploading photos might take some time. Hope everyone had a good Christmas!

The road to Zunheboto

Most people coming from Kohima to Zunheboto take the Chozuba road (which most people pronounce as 'Chazuba') which passes through the town of Chozuba in Phek district. Technically, it's a state highway, but you wouldn't know from the condition of the year. However, this year they've started work on widening the road. As a result, most of the sumos are avoiding the road and opting for the 'shortcut' which takes the Wokha Road and involves fording the Langki River. So this time I haven't a chance to see the condition of the Chozuba road.

On Monday, we went down to the village of Chishilimi to watch a rain invocation ceremony (sorry guys, still no rain). To get there, we needed to take the Chozuba road past Satakha, up till the village of M Tsügho (aka M6 - the name of this village could be another blog post) which is the last Sumi village before one enters Chakhesang land / Phek district. This gave me the chance to see what work was being done.

You can see excavators have torn into the side of the hill to make way for the new road. In some parts, it looked like they were making the road as a wide as 4 lanes, which seems ridiculous given that the most travelled road in Nagaland between Dimapur and Kohima is still only 2 lanes wide.


As you can see, the dust from passing traffic is terrible.


But the view is still pretty awesome. The town on the ridge should be Satakha, although to the left, on the same ridge, I think you can almost make out the villages of Khukiye and Lukhai.

Tomorrow I'm off to the village of Vishepu for a Christmas feast thrown by friends who've come back from Australia. Not sure when I'll post again - maybe just before New Year's.

Happy holidays everyone!

'Tis the season to get married (II)

In Nagaland, November to January really is the season for weddings here. Just ask my friend Cana who's been singing / planning / attending weddings for the past few weeks almost non-stop. I'd be interested to see what the official statistics are for the state (like the average no. of weddings per day in the month of December). Last year I ended up at a Rengma wedding, then a Lotha wedding in Kohima on the same day. I was also invited to an Angami wedding on Wednesday in Bara Bosti in Kohima, but my friend managed to organise a ride back to Zunheboto for me that morning.

All the major local papers have also reported on Friday's 'mass wedding' at the Ao Baptist church in Dimapur as a means of keeping wedding costs low, and Yan Murry at the Naga Blog has written a post calling for more 'mass weddings' in the state: Mass Weddings need to be encouraged in Naga society.

But if people want to have their big Western style weddings and have the money to afford them, who's going to stop them? It's a massive industry all over the world. My friends in Melbourne even run an online magazine dedicated to weddings (around the world) called Little Wed Hen. (Sorry guys, I didn't feel like I knew the couple well enough to cover their wedding for your website.)

Anyway, on Thursday I had the privilege of attending a special wedding here in Zunheboto. Well, I didn't know the bride or the groom until the day before the ceremony, but I did know the wedding planner, the wedding celebrant, and friends from Australia had come back to attend the wedding (being the first cousin of the bride). I also met the wedding singer, who was in the car I was in coming to Zunheboto. I didn't realise he was a bit of a celebrity in these parts. (Sorry Alobo, if you're reading this.)

For the couple's privacy, I've decided not to post any photos of them or the ceremony itself. I've just added a few photos to give a sense of the place, and to show off the suit I bought recently in Dimapur. It still needs some tailoring, but it looked very decent for the price I paid. Also, it's a pain to upload photos at my current internet speed.

Back to the wedding: the bride is Sumi, which is why the wedding was held in Zunheboto. Her husband is Zeme, another Naga tribe. His home village is in Tamenglong District in Manipur. Such 'mixed' marriages aren't uncommon these days - one wedding I attended last year was a mixed one too. (I use scare quotes here because most outsiders / Indians from the mainland would probablu consider all Nagas to be the same anyway.) Mixed marriages is another interesting topic that people have spoken to me about (like 'why Sumi girls don't want to date Sumi guys'). Maybe in another blog post.

The wedding itself took place in North Point, Zunheboto, behind the government college and very close to where I usually stay when I'm here. It was a sunny afternoon and quite warm. The wedding tent was set up the day before in the bride's father's house.



I arrived with the wedding celebrant (whose house I'm staying in), his wife and daughter. (I've already said sorry to her if people thought I was the boyfriend.) For the record, it's nice to arrive with the wedding celebrant, because there's no chance of you missing the ceremony.



During such ceremonies, it's usually customary for all 'international' guests to be introduced to the entire congregation. Thankfully, I was spared the embarrassment this time, (since I barely knew the bride and groom), because the reverend didn't think of me as an outsider anymore.

There were the usual wedding vows. Alobo Naga, who's a friend of the bride, sang two songs and after the ceremony there was the usual feasting. I took some photos with the team in charge of the wedding decorations. They were busy most of the previous day and evening, as well as the morning of the wedding itself. (The night before, I had simply sat by the fire looking bored while they toiled away.)

Finally, you might have noticed I've apologised quite a bit in this blog post. I suppose the last thing I should apologise for is the fact that because I live in Australia, I've missed most of my Singaporean friends' weddings over the past few years. Doesn't seem fair for me to attend the weddings of relative strangers, does it?

Organic Nagaland

I was actually going to promote my friend Abokali's new business, but I ended up promoting her brother's art exhibition in Kohima first.

In any case, Abokali recently started her own business called Organic Nagaland. As you can guess, they specialise in organic produce from Nagaland - given that artificial fertilisers and pesticides are practically non-existent in most parts of the state, it's not hard to find quality 'organic' produce here. However, it is difficult to transport and store the produce given the lack of infrastructure (such as good roads and constant electricity). Yet somehow she's managed to source local produce like oranges and kiwi fruit (which don't require refrigeration) and market it at recent agriculture expos in Bangalore, Delhi and now Guwahati. In the process, she's also rallied together local farmers, particularly women, and given them a source of income.

The main shop (I'm calling it her flagship store) is in Project Colony, Zunheboto. (Incidentally, her brother also designed the logo for her company.)


It really stands out when compared with other fruit and veg shops in Zunheboto, in that it actually looks nice and the produce isn't covered in dust.




Most of the products are already neatly packaged. The shelves are lined with local soya beans (ayikhu in Sumi).


And the prices are quite reasonable compared to other fruit and veg shops in town. The store also sells local spices, including angothi 'Chinese peppercorns' that are related to Sichuan peppercorns (they also give that 麻辣 málà effect) - don't forget that Nagaland is closer to Southern China than it is to the Ganges floodplain.




And the store also sells axone the fermented soya bean dish that the Sumis are famous for. During the Hornbill Festival, I met a person from America who asked me what 'axe-on' was. I had to explain that it was pronounced 'ah-cho-nie', where the 'ch' is like the 'ch' in German ach or Scottish loch. Given that the sound (a velar fricative) isn't found in any other major Naga language, most people know the dish as akhuni.

What the store sells is the dried version, which lasts quite a bit longer.


All the best with the business Abokali! I'm definitely going to take some stuff with me when I go. Definitely some dried wild apple (soooo good) and a bit of dried axone to bring back to Singapore. I doubt Australian customs would let any of this stuff in.

(Also, if you want to contact her, she has a blog here. I'd put up her email address, but it'll just attract spam.)

On the road: Nagaland (II)

So I'm stranded in Kohima for the foreseeable future. My ride from Zunheboto never materialised, but at least I'm not in a hurry anymore. I was originally meant to go to a village called Chishilimi tomorrow to watch them perform a traditional rain invocation ceremony (although it's an odd time of year to do it). Also, getting around the state in hired vehicles at this time of year is an absolute nightmare because everyone's going home for Christmas, including people living outside the state as well as people finishing their Christmas shopping in Dimapur.

In the meantime, to mark the fact that I'm not moving out of Kohima, I thought I'd post some photos from when we drove from Zunheboto to the village of Khetoi and few weeks back to watch some of the villagers rehearse for the Hornbill Festival.

We had to descend into the Tizu River valley, then come up again towards the town of Aghunato, following the road to Kiphire, which is the main town of the district (of the same name) to the east of Zunheboto district.




The Tizu flows south and then east, eventually ending up in the Chindwin which flows into the Irrawaddy. The first major river to the west of Zunheboto town is the Doyang which flows north into the Brahmaputra. That means that most of Zunheboto district is actually part of the watershed between these two major river systems.

A picnic by the river would be nice. If only there was time.

And transport.

Wild gooseberries!

As I mentioned, one of the nice things about travelling by private car is being able to stop and look at people selling fruit and veg by the roadside. It also gives one the opportunity to stop and pick fruit growing in the middle of nowhere.

And it so happened that we chanced upon a lonely gooseberry tree on a hill. Technically, these are 'Indian gooseberries', though most people here just call them 'gooseberries', or amla, the Assamese word for them [correction: the amla is the Hindi word for them and amlokhi the Assamese word]. In Sumi they're called kholethi if I'm not mistaken. In Assam and Nagaland, I've seen posters advertising their high Vitamin C content and how they're good for your health etc etc.



This particular tree was just bursting with fruit. Our driver Huto ended up climbing up to shake and break off branches, which we then picked up from the ground.



The first time I had Indian gooseberries was 3 years ago on my first trip to Nagaland. Some kind person offered them to me as we set off in a shared Sumo from Zunheboto to Kohima. Completely unsure of what to expect, I found the berries both bitter and sour (and given my general preference for sweet things, my gustatory sense was offended twofold.)

The thing I didn't realise about these gooseberries, is that when you first bite into them, they're very sour. But if you drink water right after eating them, the water tastes sweet. Even if I don't drink water, I find my saliva starts tasting sweet too.

There's a story I've heard about gooseberries from both my Sumi and Ao friends (it's probably a tale shared by most tribes in Nagaland).

It goes something like this: in olden times, a group of not-too-bright people from some village trek down to the plains to barter for salt and other things not available in the hills. On their way back, they find some gooseberries next to a spring and eat them. After eating the gooseberries, they drink the water from the spring. Finding the water sweet, they decide to lug the newly discovered 'sweet water' back to their village. I think in some versions they even leave behind some of the goods they've bartered for.

In any case, it's one of those folktales about a group of not-very-bright people said to exist somewhere.

And on that note, here's a pretty picture I took that morning we picked gooseberries.

On the road: Nagaland (I)

On of the advantages of travelling by private car and not by Sumo (the most common type of vehicle for inter-town travel) in Nagaland, is that you can stop at the roadside stalls anytime to buy fresh fruit. I was fortunate enough to be able to catch a ride with Ab. and her dad from Dimapur to Kohima exactly 2 weeks ago.

Visitors heading up to Kohima from Dimapur to attend this year's Hornbill Festival will no doubt see a few of these pineapple stands on the way.





Between Kohima and Zunheboto we also stopped outside the gate to the village of Usütomi, where some of the villagers were selling produce. (Usütomi was one of the villages I got to visit last year to do a few recordings.)





On offer were oranges, pumpkins, wild brinjals, chillis and some jungle greens.



There were also a few types of yam, as well as large ginger - the village takes it name from the kind of ginger grown there, ausü (Drop the ubiquitous a- prefix and you get usü. Add to which means 'hill', since the village is on a hilltop, like most settlements here. The mi means 'person / people' and is sometimes dropped when people talk about the village itself, not some villages seem to always keep the mi.)



Of course, having a car is no guarantee that things will go according to plan.



Our car had a flat just a few hours out of Dimapur. As is standard practice, there was a useable spare in the car. Given how hopeless I am around machines, I let Ab.'s father and their driver sort out the car business.



But with hours of travel still ahead of us (some of it through knee deep water), it was thought prudent to get the tire repaired just outside Kohima. While waiting for the tire to be fixed, Ab. and I ducked into a nearby rest stop for, surprise surprise, a cup of cha.



They're nothing much to look at, and the toilets are often pretty gross, but I quite enjoy these little rest stops.


In the end, we decided to spend the night in Kohima, given that the new quicker route to Zunheboto wasn't terribly safe to drive along at night (did I mention the car had to cross a river?)

And it was just as well, because the next day, we had another flat just a few hours out of Kohima!

Right to Information in Zunheboto

After a week and a half without internet and barely any mobile phone reception, I'm back online!

Last Wednesday, Youthnet and the Zunheboto Range Students Union held a Right to Information (RTI) hearing in the Zunheboto Town Hall. It was 4 hours long and mostly in Sumi, with a fair bit of Nagamese and English. The story has since been covered by all the major newspapers: the Nagaland Post, the Morung Express and the Eastern Mirror.



It's risky business here trying to unearth corruption, and I admire the brave members of Youthnet for what they do. This wasn't the first time they'd done what they call 'social auditing' in Nagaland. The process involves an initial meeting with members of the community where they are invited to voice any specific problem areas. They then visit and audit the respective departments to look for discrepancies in the way allocated funds have been spent. A public hearing is then held to openly discuss their findings with the public.

Joshua and Hekani from Youthnet addressing the crowd at the start of the hearing


H S Rotokha speaking as an observer at the end of the hearing




The turnout from the Zunheboto public for the hearing was a little underwhelming though. A few concerned citizens showed up, but most of the adults were representatives from the various departments that had been audited. The vast majority of attendees were students from two nearby schools who were asked to come to see democracy in action. It was important for them to come and see that it was possible to make a difference to how society functioned. I hope some of them got the message, though I suspect getting them to willingly sit through another 4 hours in a freezing hall is going to be difficult.

Joshua even presented a little chart about the effects of corruption for the benefit of the students.


Over the 4 hours, many issues were examined, including the lack of sufficient medical staff residing in Zunheboto, the lack of provision of the midday meal by schools, the need for a new water source to cope with the current demand. It was also found that out of 31 'beneficiaries' of the Chief Minister's Corpus Fund - a fund that provides capital to help small enterprises start up, none of them were currently in operation. Youthnet provided a list of these 31 'beneficiaries' along with the various amounts allocated to them.



One item in particular has featured heavily in my commute from Nito Mount to the main town area, as well as in many discussions I've had with people: the state of the roads in Zunheboto. The front page of Monday's Nagaland Post even had photo of a road in Zunheboto that was more sand than gravel. A year ago I saw them repaving the road in Project Colony in 'downtown' Zunheboto. One monsoon season later, and most of it has already been washed away.

Zunheboto is a major town in Nagaland, but it's clearly not the most pleasant place to live in Nagaland. The RTI hearing has caused quite a stir across Nagaland, if the local papers are anything to go by. I hope that as people start taking ownership of their town that things will get better. Then maybe there'll be enough water, reliable power and better phone reception and internet connectivity.

Sex sells fireworks?

Happy New Year from Nagaland!

Now, going back to Australia for a second, most Australians associate (or have associated) Canberra with being able to legally purchase porn and fireworks. It's a bit of a misconception, since fireworks are no longer freely available in the nation's capital and seriously, who buys porn in shops anymore?

Anyway, I have a point somewhere here. With Christmas and New Year's over, there's been a helluva lot of fireworks (locally known as 'bombs' here). While fireworks for New Year's is fairly standard for me, nowhere have I seen Christmas celebrating with such prolific use of explosives. It's a wonder I got any sleep on Christmas Eve.

But - apart from the loud intermittent blasts throughout the night - it was the packaging that really caught my attention. Most packaging looks fairly tame, bordering on family friendly even, but note the position of the woman's hand in this picture:

Others, on the other hand, are a little more shameless.

It's almost like a combination of porn and fireworks!

Okay, not quite, but I do find it hilarious that you're able to purchase these potentially life-threatening and sexually explicitly marketed babies, given that people aren't even allowed to go to cinemas here because it's considered a sin against God.

There are some things I don't think I'll ever understand.

Playing with fire

Christmas is definitely coming soon to Nagaland. Not only are people starting to put up their Christmas lights and stars, but last week before I left Zunheboto, I got to watch the boys living at Ab.'s have a 'little' bonfire.







These boys really aren't scared of fire. Afterwards, I even saw them doing cartwheels in the still glowing cinders.

Language vs Culture

At the Ahuna festival two weeks ago I met Ab. (click here for her blog). She'd just come back to Zunheboto after spending some time abroad, including a few years in the UK. Importantly, she'd heard about the World Oral Literature Project (WOLP) and had even contacted Mark Turin regarding the documentation of Sumi stories. One of the reasons I'd come back to Zunheboto (apart from the festival) had been to find native speakers who were willing and able to do documentary work on their own language, with the aims of producing a dictionary (and possibly a grammar). Incidentally, I had considered applying to the WOLP for funding as well - mostly so I could return to conduct a few workshops, but I never imagined I'd meet anyone who would be interested in recording texts right now.

So it was incredibly fortunate that I met her here in Zunheboto. We brought up the topic of doing a documentation project with H S R., the chairman of the Sumi Language Academy and the Sumi Cultural Association, who happens to be one of the most respected members of the community. And somehow, in the past week and a half, we've come up with a proposal to document a number of traditional songs and stories. These songs are rarely performed nowadays and only a few members of the older generation are familiar with them and even fewer are able to compose new ones.

We decided to do the project under the auspices of the Sumi Cultural Association, since the project will be looking at activities deemed 'cultural'. Without going into too much detail, we've spent three out of the past five days visting schools and offices (I've lost count of the number) seeking the support of important members of the community both financially and in spirit. I've also had more milk tea and amixi (snacks like biscuits that go with tea) than I would've liked. We're also planning a trip to Kohima later this week to meet with other officials to seek their support (and hopefully I'll be able to see some things at the Hornbill Festival too).

Now there are some members of the community whom I had spoken to about a dictionary project in the hopes that I could find someone to train to use the software and do a basic linguistic analysis of the entries - I personally would prefer a native speaker who can use a computer to do the dictionary than myself since a) I'm not a native speaker of the language b) there are capable young people who are proficient in both English and Sumi and c) there's a lot of administrative trouble for me to physically remain in the state and the country. In any case, no one suitable had been found, so I suggested that once I had secured some funding, we could put an ad up in the paper later next year and that I could return to do the workshops.

That all seemed fine until these same people heard about the documentation project. Suddenly, they're telling me not to forget the dictionary. One person went as far as to say that I should be doing the dictionary, not the 'cultural documentation' project. This is all in spite of my reassurance that such a documentation project will feed into a dictionary - stories and songs are composed of words afterall! So now I find myself in an odd conflict between 'language' and 'culture', which to me is completely ridiculous because they're both so inextricably intertwined.

I'm also not sure what they expect of me with regards to the dictionary. Over the past two weeks, I've had one-two hour sessions with a member of the Sumi Literature Board who's insisted on sitting me down and going through lists of animal names, unsure of their English translations, and simply describing them without any pictures! I've tried to hint that this really isn't the proper methodology for doing a comprehensive study of zoological terms, but apparently there's a list of plant and fruit names coming tomorrow...

At the moment I suppose I have to reassure these people that I'm not abandoning the dictionary (and I'm not), while at the same time looking for ways to implement a long term project even when I'm not physically present, which was the initial goal anyway. Ideally, I'd like to be back next year for 3-4 months, but it'll depend on funding and whether I get permission to remain in the state for that long a period of time.

Misty Zunheboto

The name Zunheboto, the name of both the town and district where most Sumis live in Nagaland, is derived from the nouns zünhebo ('ü' represents a high central unrounded vowel, and 'nh' a breathy alveolar nasal), which refers to a kind of flowering plant found in the area, and to, which refers to a 'hill' or 'ridge'.

Like most settlements in Nagaland, Zunheboto is located on top of a long ridge (people here tell me it's not a big town, just a 'long' one). Historically, these provided more security in the event of enemy raids, when tribal warfare was still practised for the purpose of taking land or taking heads, or both.







Zunheboto is pretty high in terms of elevation, and around this time of year it tends to get pretty cold (and windy) compared to other places in Nagaland. I'm told also that on a clear day, Mount Everest is visible from some parts of Zunheboto. I remain slightly skeptical because so far people have pointed in a direction that's been either too much to the southwest or northeast.

Of course, clear days here at this time of year are rare. My first few days here, I'd wake up most mornings to find a thick mist blanketing the valley below my lodge.





During the Ahuna festival, it would clear by afternoon, but since I moved to Zh.'s place, it just seems to get misty at all times of the day. The past two days, we've also had some pretty heavy showers at night and in the afternoon.

Well, here's to hoping for clearer skies (and fewer landslides)!